One of the aspects of travel I love the most is being surprised by the places I visit. It’s always good ticking off the big bucket list cities, but it’s even more rewarding when you arrive in a small town with absolutely no preconceptions, and are blown away by it.
That was exactly the case for me when I visited Wrangell, Alaska. Founded in 1811 by the Russians who then occupied Alaska, it has a population of just over 2,000 people.
Getting to Wrangell
Wrangell sits on Wrangell Island, one of 2,670 named islands in Alaska. There are 14 miles of paved road on the island, but none connecting it with the outside world. This means you have two options to reach Wrangell.
By Air
Wrangell’s tiny airport is the town’s main link with other Alaskan destinations, and, of course, the “lower 48” states. It’s served by Alaska Airlines’ quirky milk-run flights between Seattle and Anchorage in both directions.
The milk-run operates a bit like a flying bus and stops at various communities along the way. From Seattle, it calls first in Ketchikan, Wrangell comes next, after which it continues to Petersburg, Juneau and Anchorage.
This is how I made my way to Wrangell. I spent a couple of weeks working my way along the milk-run, stopping in all the communities along the way for at least a night. If you have a bit of time to spare, I highly recommend doing this.
By Sea
The alternative to flying to Wrangell is arriving by boat. Unless you’re lucky enough to have your own vessel, this will mean travelling on the Alaska Marine Highway. A little like the milk-run, these ferries work their way up the Alaskan coast from Bellingham, Washington, all the way to the Aleutian Islands.
Coming from Bellingham, Wrangell is the second stop, after Ketchikan. Continuing north, the ferry calls at Petersburg and Juneau. It’s also possible to transfer onto one of their other ferries to visit several small ports in between the mainline stops.
Whilst cruising is a very popular way to visit Alaska, the majority of cruise ships don’t call in Wrangell. Most of those which do are smaller luxury or expedition-type vessels, although some Azamara, Cunard and Viking cruises do call here.
Where to Stay in Wrangell
Wrangell has only one full-service hotel, The Stikine Inn, known as The Stik by locals. It’s right on the waterfront and doubles as Wrangell’s main (and best) restaurant. Even if you don’t stay there, be sure to stop by for dinner.
The view from the terrace is stunning on a summer’s evening, and their food is divine. I can still taste the “Swisshroom” burger.
The Stik was fully booked when I visited, so I booked a room at Fort Wrangell B&B. It was truly amazing. The service from Brian and his family was second-to-none, and I instantly felt at home. Like pretty much everywhere in Wrangell, the view was divine.
Brian’s son picked me and a couple of other guests up from the airport. On the drive to the B&B he pointed out everything there was to see and dished out recommendations on where to go and what to eat. He really couldn’t have given a better impression of his gorgeous hometown.
What To See in Wrangell
In Nature
Wrangell’s strongest attribute is its abundance of natural beauty. Wherever you wander, your eyes will be popping out of their sockets. Head north from The Stik and you’ll reach Petroglyph Beach.
If you’re anything like me, you’ll need someone to point you in the direction of the rock carvings, I spent quite some time walking in the completely wrong direction. Not that it mattered, no length of time strolling around Wrangell is too long.
The petroglyphs here were left behind by the ancient Tlingit people who are an indigenous tribe, native to the Alaskan Panhandle and parts of the Pacific Northwest. The engravings are thought to be 8,000 years old.
On the way back to town, take a detour up Mount Dewey. It’s a bit tricky to find the entrance to the trails; they’re at the back of a small residential area. When you do, it’s a pleasant and relatively easy hike to the viewpoint at the top.
Museums
Wrangell Museum, just off the main street (Front Street), is one of the best small-town museums I’ve ever visited. It has a wonderful collection covering everything from Tlingit culture and Totem poles to fishing heritage and aviation history.
It’s worth noting that unless there’s a cruise ship in port, the museum doesn’t open at weekends.
Wrangell’s other must-see is Chief Shakes Longhouse. You access it by crossing a small causeway; opening times are a little sporadic, but it’s worth the short walk to see it from the outside even when it’s closed.
Shakes were Tlingit community leaders with the title passed down through family lines. The last Shake, Charlie Jones, died in 1944. Following a change of law, the title couldn’t be passed onto his nephew, and as he had no children of his own, there have been no further Shakes since.
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