With muddy, damp boots from our recent waterfall treks, my brother and I drive a short distance outside Hornopirén to the next activity in our Carretera Austral road trip in the Chilean south. The thermal springs that await us come highly recommended, and we’re very much looking forward to warming up and decompressing after a fairly demanding day on our feet. The winding two-lane road takes us closer and closer to our destination, and we can’t help but feel excited to explore another gorgeous natural scene.
Thermal Springs: Termas de Pichicolo
Upon arrival at Termas de Pichicolo, we step up to a small, stilted office building to check in. Completely unprepared, we need to buy Pichicolo-branded towels, and the receptionist hands us locker keys for our belongings. She explains the route that we need to walk to get to the springs, and we head out, towels in hand.
It’s quite a long walk from the check-in building to the actual springs, but it’s a beautiful one. We cross over a narrow metal bridge above a broad, shallow river and enter a forested area. The path is well-marked, but as we keep walking, we wonder if we’ve somehow gotten off track because of the distance from the entrance. Finally, we spot a wooden structure: the locker rooms. And beyond, we see thermal pools steaming and glistening, clear water revealing smooth gray rocks.
I’m shocked that there is no one else to be found. Although there are no people, it’s not silent; I hear the sound of trickling water, leaves fluttering in the tree canopy, and occasional bird chirps. Deep shades of green from all the plant life surround us, complemented by the dark brown, moist wooden planks that make up a web of boardwalks connecting dozens of thermal pools. Walking to a medium-sized pool, which has a temperature label of 36°C (96.8°F), we dip our toes in.
The water is warm, but not scalding. Beneath my feet, the smooth pebbles feel like a much-needed massage. I ease further into the water, my muscles beginning to relax, and I lean against the smooth wood lining the pool. My brother and I chat about our first impressions of Pichicolo, then the conversation fades as we simply enjoy the spa-like ambiance.
Eventually, we explore the other areas of Termas de Pichicolo. We follow the winding wooden boardwalks to the far side of the complex, where there’s a huge, shallow pool, the signature gray pebbles lining the bottom. Wooden lounge chairs sit on the nearby deck, and in the background, behind the layer of steam rising from the pool, green hills disappear into thick clouds.
It’s a magical place, more so than any other hot springs I’ve ever been to. Something about the tranquil environment and feeling so remote, not only from the front office, but from the rest of civilization, is the kind of calm that makes us want to cancel the rest of our trip itinerary. Even so, these thermal pools close fairly early in the evening, and a polite security officer begins to scout the premises and reminds us of the closing time. Reluctantly, we exit the pool and change back into our clothes, taking the long walk back to our car as the last of the day’s sunlight disappears.
The Last Breakfast: Fjord-Side Cafe
The next morning, we need to check out of our comfy cabin in Hornopirén. The neighbor’s dog supervises our exit, and we say goodbye to him and the chickens that wander around the property. Since it’s breakfast time, we select a nearby cafe just down the road, right by the fjord shoreline. We see a ferry taking off, heading south, and watch it for a while before stepping into the little cafe. It’s decorated from floor to ceiling—in fact, even the ceiling is decorated with various art pieces, flags, and travel memorabilia.
We order breakfast empanadas, and I have a handcrafted vanilla latte while my brother opts for an energy drink from the conveniently located fridge in this cafe. As we enjoy our last meal in Hornopirén, we can see another ferry arriving outside. It’s another drizzly day, but we’ve gotten used to the humidity and seemingly constant mist by now. Before leaving, we purchase a few snacks for the road, including my favorite dessert (alfajores), and give our best to the gracious cafe owner.
(buen viaje sign)
Off-Roading Adventure: Waterfall Climb
Our next destination, Chiloe, requires that we take another ferry to cross the Canal de Chacao. But first, we must drive back north a bit to the ferry port. And along our drive, we spot something that piques our interest: a tall, slanted cliff face with a waterfall running along the mossy rock. By this point in our trip, we’ve already encountered more than a few waterfalls, but we decide to check out one more before leaving this region.
After pulling our car off the side of the Carretera Austral, we walk over rocky terrain to the waterfall and enjoy the sights and sounds. There are only occasional cars passing by, so we feel safe enough to linger, listening to the constant rush of water. My brother sends his drone up, and for a few minutes we watch the waterfall from a new angle—thin white water tracing a diagonal line down the rock, disappearing into a jumble of boulders below. I climb alongside it just a little, carefully testing each foothold, and catch little details that we wouldn’t have seen from the road.
Leaving Hornopirén Too Soon
Our final hoorah at the roadside waterfall is exactly the kind of spontaneous detour that makes the Carretera Austral feel so alive. We’ve truly let our natural surroundings dictate our plans, and that’s just the type of trip I had in mind. Wiping off the mud from our boots, we climb back into the car and point north toward the ferry. On the other side of the channel, Chiloé awaits.
<p>The post Surprise Waterfalls & Natural Thermal Springs in Hornopirén, Chile first appeared on Travelbinger.</p>