3,380 miles from New York and just 1,250 south of the North Pole, I couldn’t miss the chance to visit the United States’ most northerly city. It’s often, slightly inaccurately, referred to as “the top of the world”.
It is, of course, 1,350 miles from the true top of the world and Canada, Greenland and Norway all have more northerly settlements.
But it is, quite accurately, the top of the U.S. So, after a couple of weeks working my way up the Alaska coast on Alaska Airlines’ “milk-run”, I decided to take one more flight.
Getting to Utqiagvik
There’s really only one sensible way to get to Utqiagvik; that’s to fly. The U.S’s most northerly city isn’t connected to the rest of Alaska by road, let alone the Lower 48. A few unpaved roads run around the city, but you’ll see more quadbikes using them than cars.
I flew on Alaska Airlines’ once-daily flight from Anchorage Ted Stevens Airport (ANC). It’s an enjoyable two-hour hop on a Boeing 737. The views as you cross the vast Alaskan interior are staggering, but the approach to Utqiagvik over the Arctic Ocean is something else entirely.
There are a couple of things you should know before booking your flights to Utqiagvik. First and foremost, you won’t find flights to Utqiagvik when you search on Alaska Airlines’ app or website. Instead, you need to search for flights to Barrow.
The reason for this is that for a long while, Utqiagvik was known as Barrow. The native Inupiat peoples had long called this place Utqiagvik, but most non-natives chose to refer to it as Barrow, because, presumably, it’s an awful lot easier to pronounce and even easier to spell.
They chose Barrow after Point Barrow, the headland which marks the absolute north of U.S. territory, just to the northeast of the city centre. When the USPS opened a post office in Utqiagvik, they too referred to it as Barrow, and the name stuck. In 2016, a referendum was held, and the city’s name was changed back to Utqiagvik. Alaska Airlines hasn’t quite caught on to this yet.
The second thing to bear in mind is the need for travel insurance. Barrow Airport is plagued by poor visibility and harsh weather, and it isn’t unusual for flights to be cancelled or diverted back to Anchorage. Utqiagvik isn’t a cheap place to get stuck, so be prepared for all eventualities.
Where to Stay
It probably comes as no surprise that accommodation options in Utqiagvik are limited. I stayed at the Top of the World Hotel, which is as close as you’ll get to a full-service hotel here.
It was right by the beach, and everywhere in town was walkable. The restaurant does the fluffiest chocolate chip pancakes I’ve ever had, but my room left a little to be desired. In other words, don’t expect luxury.
Another popular option is King Eider Inn, which is opposite the airport terminal. Otherwise, your choices are limited to a couple of B&Bs and homestays.
Things To Do in Utqiagvik
The main thing to do in Utqiagvik is wander around and explore for yourself. It’s not a pretty town, far from it, but it is an impressive sight. The permafrost roads and houses built on stilts are something you won’t see in many other places. Just remember to take some decent walking boots; there is mud everywhere.
Utqiagvik’s main attraction is the Inupiat Heritage Center which is just behind the city’s main supermarket. It has a fantastic display on local history and Inupiat culture, with a particularly interesting exhibit on the whaling traditions of Inupiat people.
From here, take a stroll around the lagoon to the iconic Utqiagvik signpost. Have an aimless walk around the residential area beyond, before looping back around to the Top of the World to see the Whalebone Arch.
If you’re staying for a couple of days, it’s well worth booking a tour to Point Barrow. The Top of the World offer tour packages when you book with them, and there are a couple of local tour operators in town.
Where to Eat
I had one of the most memorable dinners of my life at Sam & Lee’s Chinese Restaurant. I say Chinese restaurant, but they serve pretty much every cuisine you can imagine, including some pretty epic-looking pizzas.
The place was absolutely buzzing when I arrived. Almost everyone else was a local, and I appeared to be the only tourist around. I always think that’s the sign of a good restaurant. They had so little space left, they cleared their serving table beside the kitchen so I could have a table.
The alternatives are a couple of pizzerias and a Japanese restaurant. I’d actually planned to go to the latter, but it was closed on the night I visited. The Top of the World also has an on-site restaurant, which gets rave reviews, as my pancakes the next morning testified.
Is Utqiagvik as Expensive as You Think?
If you’re visiting from outside Alaska, prices are the first thing you’ll notice in Utqiagvik. Having spent a couple of weeks in the state before making it to the U.S’s most northerly town, I’d become gradually acclimatised to Alaskan prices.
But, even by Alaskan prices, Utqiagvik is expensive. Imagine it as the New York of Alaska, and you won’t go far wrong (for prices, that is, there are no other similarities).
The main supermarket, Stuaqpak, is notoriously expensive. So much so, several travel vloggers have made videos documenting its prices. But, as a visitor, Stuaqpak isn’t actually that pricey.
You’re going to be grabbing a few bits for your stay rather than doing your grocery shopping. A bottle of water or iced coffee is maybe a dollar or two more than elsewhere, but nothing too crazy. In fact, if you want to grab lunch on-the-go, Stuaqpak’s hot counter is pretty reasonable, and the food isn’t bad at all.
Dining out is noticeably more expensive than elsewhere. The Top of the World’s restaurant is especially pricey, whereas Sam & Lee’s is a bit more “affordable”- think $30 for a Chinese entrée or around $40 for a pizza.
As a traveller, the biggest expense you’ll have in Utqiagvik is accommodation. My not-so-great room at the Top of the World set me back $276 room-only.
Is it Worth It?
Oh yes! Some things are worth paying extra for, and a visit to Utqiagvik is one of them. It may not be pretty, it may not have all that much to do, and it sure is expensive, but it’s special. This is the kind of place you go once in a lifetime, and the kind of place that will stick with you forever.
<p>The post I Travelled to the US’s Most Northerly City: It felt like a Different Country first appeared on Travelbinger.</p>