Baku is a city of contrasts. Located on the western shore of the Caspian Sea, it combines medieval architecture, Soviet-era planning, and large-scale modern development. In 2019, Baku gained international attention as the host city for the UEFA Europa League Final. Having never been to the country, my father immediately applied for tickets when they became available and was fortunate to obtain a pair for us to attend.
While the event attracted global media coverage and a temporary influx of visitors, outside the stadium, the city felt eerily quiet, with the contrast between its scale and the absence of everyday activity one of its most noticeable features.
Baku is Azerbaijan’s capital and largest city, with a population of over two million people in the wider metropolitan area. It has historically been shaped by oil wealth, first during the late 19th-century oil boom and later through post-Soviet redevelopment. Much of modern Baku reflects long-term planning rather than organic growth, resulting in wide roads, large plazas, and extensive public spaces.
The City During the Europa League Final
During the 2019 Europa League Final, in which British Premier League Clubs Chelsea faced Arsenal, Baku was visibly prepared for an international event. The infrastructure was modern, its signage was clear, and transport to major areas was functional.
However, outside of official fan zones and the stadium itself, for a capital city, it was practically derelict. It’s no joke to say that the large boulevards, public squares, and waterfront promenades had no one in them, even during times when crowds might be expected.
This emptiness was amplified by the scale of the city’s architecture. In Baku, the roads are wide, buildings are large, and distances between landmarks can be significant. While the event itself was well-organised, and the stadium packed to the rafters on match day, the lack of any locals in everyday areas created a subdued atmosphere that contrasted with typical expectations of a European football final host city.
The Old City (Icherisheher)
The most historically significant part of Baku is Icherisheher, also known as the Old City. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, such as places like Hoi An’s Old Town, or Cambodian Memorial Sites, contains some of the city’s oldest structures, including the Maiden Tower and the Palace of the Shirvanshahs.
Unlike the newer parts of Baku, Icherisheher feels much more compact, walkable and authentic.
The narrow streets, stone buildings, and enclosed courtyards create a sense of continuity and history, and even during major events, this area tends to remain calmer, with visitors spread out across small cafés, museums, and residential lanes. It provides a clear contrast to the surrounding modern city and offers insight into Baku’s pre-oil past.
Modern Architecture and Urban Planning
Modern Baku is defined by its ambitious architectural projects, and while they look majestic, there is a sense of artificiality coming from the buildings. One of the most prominent buildings is the Heydar Aliyev Center, designed by architect Zaha Hadid, notable for its curved, flowing design and lack of sharp angles, standing out against the otherwise angular cityscape.
The Flame Towers are a trio of skyscrapers visible from many parts of the city. These structures symbolise Azerbaijan’s association with fire and energy and dominate the skyline, particularly at night when illuminated.
Despite their visual impact, many of these areas feel designed for aesthetic prestige rather than everyday use, acting more as symbols of Azerbaijani power than as functional public spaces. Large open spaces surrounding major buildings often lack seating, shade, or commercial activity, contributing to the impression of emptiness when foot traffic is low.
The Caspian Sea and the Waterfront
Baku’s waterfront, commonly referred to as Baku Boulevard, stretches along the Caspian Sea and serves as one of the city’s main recreational areas. The promenade includes parks, walking paths, cafés, and cultural attractions. It is well-maintained and spacious, offering views across the water and back toward the city skyline.
Even here, during the Europa League Final period, the number of people using the space felt limited compared to its size.
While the emptiness of the fans can be chalked up to the British being allergic to sunshine, preferring to stay where there was alcohol, and a lack of any shade on Bakus large open spaces, the absence of any locals felt somewhat disturbing, almost like something out of 28 Days Later.
Transport and Practicalities
Baku has a functioning public transport system, including a metro network that connects key areas of the city. Taxis are widely available, and the road infrastructure is modern. Distances between attractions, however, can be greater than expected due to the city’s layout.
English is spoken to a limited extent in tourist-facing areas, though Russian and Azerbaijani are more commonly used. Signage for major attractions is generally clear, particularly in central districts.
Overall Impressions
Baku prioritises scale, visibility, and image. While its historic core offers intimacy and authenticity, its modern districts project ambition, control, and national identity. During the 2019 Europa League Final, the city felt staged and like a curated version of itself.
Public spaces were pristine and orderly, yet unusually quiet beyond designated event zones, giving the impression of a city presenting its most acceptable face while keeping its rougher, less visible realities out of sight.
This deliberate balance between modern infrastructure, historical landmarks, and restrained street-level activity creates a distinctive atmosphere. Even during a major international event, Baku didn’t feel chaotic or overwhelmed, but composed and regulated, almost as if you were always being watched.
For visitors, this can be both striking and disorienting. The city does not reveal itself through crowds or constant movement, but through architecture, vast open spaces, and what is absent as much as what is shown. At times, Baku feels less like a city unfolding naturally and more like one consciously performing a version of itself for the outside world.
<p>The post Baku, Azerbaijan: Scale, Space, and Silence first appeared on Travelbinger.</p>