The approach to Juneau is exhilarating, we make several sharp turns at a low altitude over the grassy wetlands between the city and the airport to line up with the runway which appears from nowhere. The lining up with the runway hasn’t quite gone to plan and the pilot spools the engines up once more and we go around for a second try.
Flying is the only logical way to reach Alaska’s unlikely state capital. Indeed, Juneau isn’t connected to the rest of Alaska by road or rail. And that’s what makes it such an unlikely choice for the state’s administrative center. For decades, campaigners have been trying to bestow Juneau’s power on larger, more accessible Anchorage, but little old Juneau is still standing strong. That’s why I had to see it for myself.
Ben, my uber-friendly Cuban taxi driver from the airport to the Alaskan Hotel in Downtown points out eagles perched alongside the highway awaiting their prey before taking a detour to Macaulay Salmon Hatchery where he leads me to watch the fish jumping down a salmon ladder.
Highlights From a Weekend in Juneau
My first port of call was the Red Dog Saloon. A Juneau institution, it claims to be the capital’s oldest bar. Complete with a sawdust floor, dim lighting and flags from every corner of the world covering the ceiling, it makes the perfect spot for a celebratory pint of Alaskan beer to mark my arrival. The Alaskan Brewing Company are themselves based in Juneau; the following afternoon I paid a visit to their harborside pub for a tasting session which I thoroughly recommend.
I had planned to spend my first morning in Juneau taking an excursion to the Mendenhall Glacier. In what turned out to be good news, the excursion cancelled, and I found myself on a chilly public bus. The cold aside, the ride through suburban Juneau turned into a jovial affair; the driver, clearly delighted to have a bus full of tourists, gave us a mini tour, pointing out everything from museums to his friends’ houses.
However you get to Mendenhall, the view speaks for itself. Back Downtown, I headed up Mount Roberts. The five-minute ride to the top on the Goldbelt Tram cost an eye-watering $50, but I’d wanted to ride it for as long as I can remember, so I put it down as money well spent.
The sweeping panorama of Juneau from the top justified the cost a little more, though the highlight was a fascinating exhibition on Tlingit culture. The Tlingit, or People of the Tides, are as much a part of American culture as the American Indians and occupy Alaska’s southwestern panhandle, the coastal areas of British Columbia and as far south as Portland, Oregon. It’s divided into two moieties (descent groups); the Eagle and the Raven which is passed down generation after generation.
How to Visit Alaska’s Unlikely State Capital Yourself
Unless you’re one of the almost 1.5 million annual visitors who reach Juneau by cruise ship, you too will have the pleasure of arriving by air. Alaska Airlines fly 3 times daily from Seattle/Tacoma (SEA) to Juneau (JNU); Delta offer a seasonal service on the same route, both providing connections from destinations in the U.S. and abroad. The flight time from Seattle is around 2.5 hours. Capital Transit provide an airport express bus during weekday peaks; at other times, you’ll want to take a taxi.
Once you’re there, accommodation options are plentiful but pricey. If you can avoid the height of summer, provided you don’t mind the Alaskan chill, you’ll cut costs considerably. In high season, budget options start from around $250, whilst a more comfortable standard chain hotel will set you back $400-600 per night.
I stayed at the Alaskan Hotel & Bar, a quirky independent spot on the main street, South Franklin. Having opened its doors in 1913, it’s Juneau’s oldest hotel and a part of local history. The décor and furnishings reflect its age, but I’d take this sort of character over the monotony of a chain hotel any day.
If you do opt to visit Juneau on a cruise, be sure to book your shore excursions early as places fill up fast. There are several locally operated options which offer far better value than the cruise line’s own tours.
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