I’m in the passenger seat with a fresh coffee and a little cup of Greek yogurt topped with berries from a cafe in Providencia (a section of Santiago, Chile), and the highway stretches out in front of us.
We’re leaving Santiago behind us. Heading for a vibrant city on the coast called Valparaíso, without a plan, only having heard that it’s a must-see, not too far from Santiago. It’s already midday, but this impromptu Chilean adventure is just beginning.
Cruising on Ruta 68
Ah, Ruta 68. The road connecting Santiago and the coast is smooth, with long, lazy winding sections, and elevation changes that make my ears pop occasionally. Dry hills are rolling out around us, and it feels relieving to be out of the chaotic big-city scene that Santiago has.
It’s on this route that I previously split off toward Algarrobo, a beach town farther south than Valparaíso, on another weekend trip. But today brings a different destination. Algarrobo is quiet; “Valpo,” as the locals call it, is loud and colorful, as we’re about to witness for ourselves.
The Crowded Streets of Valparaíso
Buildings appear ahead, dense and brightly painted, old-looking with more character than I imagined. After driving on the open highway for well over an hour, the tight streets feel claustrophobic. We’re thrust into a city atmosphere once again.
In a not-so-small vehicle, the parking stress is real. Valpo has tight, winding, confusing streets, and the street parking spots seem few and far between, perhaps because it’s a Sunday afternoon. I’m already catching glimpses of colorful artwork rising up with the buildings, and the excitement to get out and immerse ourselves in this new place is building.
Stops & Artwork in the City
The first stop is technically just for the bathroom, and since we don’t see a convenient service station or anything similar, we try a museum. It looks a bit dim inside, and as the receptionist explains, the power is out. Not just in this museum, but in a large portion of the city—well, that’s what I understand with the often taxing job of understanding Chilean Spanish.
In that moment, we learn that the funicular (the famous rail-mounted car that’s a must-do for tourists) is down. That won’t be an option, but luckily, there’s more to see in this city. I poke around the museum, my footsteps causing the old wooden floors to creak, and I take in the view of the ocean outlined by well-worn buildings.
Just walking down one or two streets would bring so much pleasure to any street art fanatic, and I struggle to take everything in as we pass block after block in search of one particular piece of street art. Apparently, it’s a set of stairs painted like a piano, and Google Maps plus Apple Maps both seem to be failing us in the confusion of these stacked and winding streets. We find it after some time getting lost, and it’s a bit like arriving in front of the Alamo in Texas or Mount Rushmore: We stand and stare, take a few photos, and go hunt for the next scene.
It’s around this time that we both realize we absolutely need to find a “terremoto” drink. The direct translation to English is earthquake, and the idea is that this classic festive Chilean drink makes you feel like you’re experiencing an earthquake after just one. So, we start asking around at tiny bars nestled in between steep walkways.
Finally, we find a terremoto and taste the rich sweetness of pink wine with a floating chunk of pineapple ice cream. It’s usually reserved for festivities during Chile’s Independence Day, known as Dieciocho because it’s on the eighteenth of September. It’s only the first of June now, so we’re far from that date, but we enjoy the sweet drink nonetheless.
Strolling down quaint streets, we bump into street art and more street art. It’s at every corner, a constant reminder of the character of Valparaíso. We stop by the funicular, which is still out of service because of the power outage. However, the wooden platform overlooks much of the city and offers scenic ocean views.
Bonus Detour: Concón Sand Dunes
And as for the drive back to Santiago? Well, we weren’t quite ready yet, and opted for a bonus adventure. Another coastal city, one known to be more modern and spacious, is right up the road—a 30ish minute drive. It’s called Viña del Mar, and dunes are pushing up against the city’s edge.
Along the relatively short drive to Viña del Mar (known locally as simply “Viña”), we spot the iconic flower-clock that sits on a gentle hill by the road. Neither of us verifies whether the clock actually tells time accurately or if it’s just for show, but it’s a beautiful sight either way.
Reaching the dunes, we see a stand with a sign advertising boards for sand-surfing. The sunset is happening fast, and we want to catch it from the top of the dunes, so we pass on the boards, park across the street, and start the sandy ascent. Witnessing the sunset spill out over the ocean and along the coastline, with Vina’s tall white buildings in the backdrop, is the cherry on top of a perfect day trip to the coast.
Back to Santiago
With grains of sand in our shoes, a few extra photos in our phones, and heads humming with new memories and new flavors and new sights, we finally head back to Santiago.
As dusk turns into nighttime, Ruta 68 feels longer than it did before; Santiago feels farther away. And I can’t help but start thinking about the next time I’ll travel to Valparaíso, to the coast, and what that will have in store for me.
<p>The post A Day Trip to Valparaíso, Chile (+ Surprise Ending) first appeared on Travelbinger.</p>